Everyone enjoys the soothing colorful and interesting occupants of a freshwater aquarium.  Fish seem to live in a world of their own, gliding through water in a seemingly never-ending quest to be somewhere.  Enjoyment is especially keen when the aquarium glass is clear and the water environment is clean and without algal buildup.

To keep and maintain this special environment takes time and skill.  The occupants are in a constant battle with the aquarium owner.

As they eat they continually discharge waste products that provide a broad range of nutrients that are ever-increasing and available to fauna present in the water.

One of these fauna is algae and it has the unique ability to proliferate in aquarium environments where the ph of the water is somewhat neutral, the water is warm, and there is abundant light and nutrients upon which the algae feed.

When maintaining a freshwater aquarium, there are several key considerations to ensure the health and well-being of the aquatic environment. Here are the top 10 maintenance considerations for freshwater aquariums:

When maintaining a freshwater aquarium, there are several key considerations to ensure the health and well-being of the aquatic environment. Here are the top 10 maintenance considerations for freshwater aquariums:

Water quality is a broad term.  It generally refers to monitoring five elements: temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

Temperature is going to vary depending on the aquatic animals in the aquarium.  A good submersible water heater with a thermostat will help immensely with this parameter.  Also keep the aquarium away from the building heating source like an forced air register or baseboard heating register.  Do not let the sun illuminate the aquarium.  Sunlight is very powerful and will heat up the aquarium rapidly.

PH is a term used to describe the acidity or alkalinity of the water.  There are test strip or electronic devices that can be used to determine the ph level of your water.  Ph in your water should be as close to neutral as possible.  Neutral is ph 7.0 as the number increases the water becomes increasingly alkaline.  As the number falls the water becomes increasingly acid.

The Ph scale is a 14 point scale from 1 to 14, with 7 as neutral.  Receiving a number that is one point above or one below ph 7.0 indicates a potential problem that may need addressing.

Keep in mind that it is normal to have fluctuating ph levels.  acidity levels will increase as the waste products in the aquarium build up.  It is possible to add chemicals to adjust the ph, but the best solution is to perform a partial water change.

Ammonia is produced naturally through various biological processes, such as the decomposition of organic matter, the breakdown of urea in urine, and the activities of certain bacteria.  Ammonia is a concentrated form of nitrogen.  As the ammonia levels increase so does the potential for an algae bloom.

Ammonia is a byproduct of fish waste, uneaten food, and decaying organic matter. Ammonia is toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms at high concentrations. It can cause stress, illness, and even death.

Nitrite is typically found in most mature aquariums.  Nitrite (NO2-) is produced as part of the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is a natural process that occurs in the aquarium, involving the conversion of toxic ammonia (NH3) into less harmful nitrite (NO2-) and then further into nitrate (NO3-). Nitrite is still toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms, but its presence indicates progress in the nitrogen cycle.

The conversion process is as follows: Fish waste, decaying organic matter, and uneaten food in the aquarium release ammonia (NH3) into the water. Additionally, beneficial bacteria called Nitrosomonas convert ammonia into nitrite through a process called nitrification. This is the first step in the nitrogen cycle.

To control nitrite levels in the aquarium, it’s crucial to establish and maintain a healthy biological filtration system. This includes providing sufficient surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize, such as in filter media or biological filter materials. Regular water testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels is essential to monitor the progress of the nitrogen cycle and detect any potential issues. Partial water changes and proper feeding practices can also help minimize excessive nitrite accumulation.

Nitrate is the final product of the nitrogen cycle.  Another group of beneficial bacteria called Nitrobacter further convert nitrite into nitrate through a process called nitrite oxidation. This is the second step in the nitrogen cycle.

Once nitrate is produced, it accumulates in the aquarium water. Nitrate is relatively less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, but high levels can still be harmful to fish and other aquatic organisms, especially if they are continuously exposed to elevated concentrations.

Conduct routine water changes to maintain proper water quality.

The filtration system is the single most important component of the aquarium.  In an outdoor biome filtration occurs everywhere water can permeate or move across a structure.  Soil, leaf litter, sand, pebbles, flora and more  all contribute in some manner to the conditioning of water and the removal of naturally occurring compounds or other biologic matter.

In an aquarium these naturally occurring items are in short supply.  Those present, have difficulty keeping pace with the waste material produced by the aquarium occupants and overfeeding that may occur.  Consequently, aquarists have to resort to other mechanical means in an attempt to replicate what would otherwise be a naturally occurring process.

The mechanical removal of waste solids and other free floating organisms is accomplished through the aquarium filter.  The filter performs multiple roles that are all beneficial to the biome of the aquarium.

The filter removes suspended solids in the water.  The filter is also responsible for aeration (adding oxygen and other gases to the water), creating a current to keep solids suspended and causing an even distribution of aerated water, and when an activated charcoal filter is introduced, it removes other toxic water soluble compounds.

Keeping the filter operational, clean, and replacing filter media is critical to aquarium health and its’ occupants healthy.

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In the outdoor biome water is continually being introduced through rain/snow events and through fog precipitation on structures like fauna and rocks and other objects.  The water is then filtered and eventually finds its’ way to brooks, streams, rivers, and the ocean.

The continual replenishment of water into the biome has the effect of diluting any toxins or other harmful chemical compounds to such an extent that they are difficult to detect.

Water introduced to the biome either makes its’ way to streams via a surface runoff process or through a penetration into the soil where compounds are chemically rendered inert and/or physically removed through chemical bonding and mechanical filtration resulting in the purification of the water.

In the aquarium biome water is not naturally introduced and does not have the advantage of ground filtration to dilute and remove excess organic compounds.  Consequently it is up to the aquarist to perform this function in an effort to keep the water healthy.

Without regular water exchanges, organic compounds will build up in a dissolved state, ever increasing the toxicity of the water in the aquarium.  It becomes the responsibility of the aquarist to exchange 33% of the water in the aquarium on a periodic basis.

The source of the water can be from the house spigot or from rain caught in a cistern or bucket outside.

Water from the spigot in the house will contain conditioning chemicals if the house is attached to a municipal water supply.  The concentrations of these chemicals can be high enough to harm or kill the occupants of the aquarium.  If the house is fed by a well there is not likely to be added chemicals/gases to the water.  The only exception might be a water softener that adds salt to the water.

If you are using rainwater you may discover the container catching rainwater has a healthy population of parasites.  It may also have an excess of organic/inorganic compounds due to deposition of compounds on the roof and the washing effect of rain on the roof surface.

The safest water to use is well water that has not been conditioned.  The second best is house spigot water.  However, water from a municipal supply will have dissolved gases that need to escape prior to use in the aquarium.  Keep the spigot water in a clean container(s) for at least 24 hrs allowing the gases to escape.

Perform the water exchange and be certain to have an activated charcoal filter (new) in the water filter to absorb other dissolved toxins that might be in the municipal water.

Regular water exchanges will remove accumulated pollutants, maintain water clarity, and replenish essential minerals.

A poorly lit aquarium is not pleasing to the eye, and may result in an unhealthy biome for plant growth.

Depending on the occupants of the aquarium, lighting needs will vary.  Generally speaking, an aquarist will need to do their homework and determine the correct frequencies, intensity, and  duration of light.

The aquarium fauna that is present will have a specific light photoperiod associated with its’ healthy growth.  Likewise, algae will have a photoperiod that is associated with its’ growth.  Understanding the photoperiod requirements of the aquarium occupants will drive the type of aquarium lighting that is used, and the duration  of time the lighting is in use in a 24  hour period.

The feeding regimen is dictated by the occupants of the aquarium.  Fish, and others, will all benefit from a food that is balanced and suitable for the occupants of the aquarium.

Once again, do the homework necessary to understand the nutritional requirements of your selected aquarium occupants.  Once the nutrition requirements are established, be careful to not overfeed.

Excess food in the aquarium will be digested by bacteria and result in an increased rate of ammonia saturation of the aquarium water.  Testing of the water can determine ammonia levels and when to exchange water.

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A new aquarium is a beautiful sight with brightly colored fish and clean crisp decor displayed.  However, an aquarium is a living biome that has waste producing occupants.  The waste will be in dissolved compounds and in physical material that settles on most, if not all, aquarium surfaces.

Often algae will soon follow the introduction of aquarium occupants.  Algae can be prolific and will grow on any surface present in the aquarium.  It is the responsibility of the aquarist to keep on top of the decor in the aquarium, removing particulate buildup and generally keeping things clean.

It may be necessary from time-to-time to remove rocks and other decor to perform a thorough cleaning of particulate matter and any algae that has taken up residence on the object.  Using an aquarium vacuum is an effective means for removing sediment lodged in between the gravel on the aquarium bottom.  Don’t forget to remove dead fauna as this will only add to the ammonia present in the aquarium water.

There is a constant in the universe that pertains specifically to all aquarists.  That constant is: algae will be present no matter what controls are used against it.  Maintaining an aquarium inevitably means coping with algae.

There are some controls that are somewhat effective in slowing algal growth, but none are capable of fully removing the little colonies of plants from your aquarium.  Controls that are somewhat effective would include photo period (duration of lighting), and water exchange to control water nutrient levels.

Many aquarists have enjoyed introducing algae eaters like the Bristlenose Pleco (Ancistrus sp.), or Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata).  Both are effective and introduce a biological control as a compliment to the mechanical scraping and scrubbing necessary to manage an aquarium and the varied forms of algae.

No matter what is selected to occupy the aquarium, the aquarist should be quick to notice any changes in behavior, appearance, or appetite.  Each occupant will have particular behaviors that they perform with specific stimuli.

Behaviors can be feeding methods, or exploration processes, or interaction with others in the aquarium.  Look for differences or a general malaise.

Appearance is typical of bacterial, fungal, or parasitic onslaught against the occupant.  This may take the form of irregular dots on the scales, or threadlike protrusions from the scales.  Learn the shape and length of the fins on the fish.  Some pathogens will attack the fins and cause irregular shapes to emerge.

Aquarists are excellent observers and quickly learn the difference between a healthy occupant and an unhealthy one.

When an unhealthy occupant is discovered try to remove the occupant to the hospital tank and then perform treatment an necessary.  It may be necessary to consult a vet and send pictures of the pathogen in question.  Having the occupant in the hospital aquarium means that treatment can be performed without affecting the other occupants of the primary aquarium.

Most occupants will remain healthy provided the aquarist monitors for ammonia, ph, nitrites, and maintains a constant temperature.  Try to remove the stressors and feed a well balanced diet to prevent occupant illness.

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Aquarium maintenance is just as important as feeding the occupants or exchanging water.  The aquarist must be vigilant in inspecting and repairing/replacing non-functioning aquarium equipment.

Often the first signs of equipment failure will be a new sound coming from rotating devices.  The aquarium filter, depending on design, will have an impeller that may occasionally break.  The impeller will still rotate, but will produce a scratching sound.  Before it fails replace the part causing the sound.

Inspect the temperature and make sure the aquarium is maintaining a constant temperature.  Immersion heaters typically fail because of a faulty thermostat.

Become a regular inspector of the physical aquarium and its’ equipment.  Knowing how things look and sound when they are running correctly will make it invariably easier to identify a fault when it happens.

Make a habit of observing the overall condition of the aquarium.  Many aquarists keep a spiral notebook of observations and testing results from testing the water quality and temperature.  They will include the name of the store where purchases were made, and any receipts received.

If the aquarium was treated with an antibiotic, an aquarist will note how the need for an antibiotic came about, and what dosages were needed and for how long.

Part of the fun of being an aquarist is the occasional repositioning of decor in the aquarium, and the addition of new occupants,

Keeping an aquarium is like having a continuous science expirement running where you are managing the well-being of all the occupants and using science to keep them all healthy.

Remember, every aquarium is unique, and maintenance requirements can vary. It’s important to research and understand the specific needs of the fish, plants, and other organisms in your aquarium and tailor the maintenance routine accordingly.