We all love looking into an aquarium, but when they are full of algae or excess fish waste we tend to not spend as much time enjoying the experience.

All aquariums have the same problem of becoming cloudy, growing algae, and showing waste products on all surfaces.

Aquarists understand that part of the enjoyment associated with keeping an aquarium is the routine management of the water and biome.

With periodic cleaning and monitoring of water chemistry the water and glass will remain clear.

We can enjoy looking in and the aquarium occupants can enjoy looking out.

Management of the biome requires that the aquarist periodically vacuum the floor gravel, and blow the particulate waste off of decor items in the aquarium.  Keeping a clean environment will help in reducing water soluble toxins and improve occupant health.

Cleaning an aquarium deals primarily with three general areas: water chemistry, decor and surroundings, and mechanical filtration.  Each area has unique requirements that will be discussed below.

The cleaning process, depending on the size of the aquarium, can be time-consuming initially, but over time the process will shorten somewhat if the aquarist employs good aquarium etiquette.  Aquarium etiquette is similar among most aquariums.  To what extent the aquarist takes advantage of cleaning etiquette will have an impact on how much effort is needed during cleaning.

Aquarium cleaning is accomplished in one of two ways.  Cleaning can take the form of “spring cleaning” where cleaning is left to a particular day separated by weeks of inattention.

Cleaning can alternatively take the form of a daily process with occasional tasks left to a particular day as needed.

These two methods are equally effective, but most aquarists seem to lean towards the latter.

Daily attention to the aquarium seems to keep most cleaning tasks under control and less of a burden.

Daily examination also provides the aquarist with excellent insight into the overall health of the aquarium occupants.  As with all living creatures, they die.  Removal of dead occupants is important to manage ammonia levels in the aquarium.  Daily examination lends itself well to the overall well-being of the aquarium.

Performing an analysis of the water in the aquarium is the single most important task of the aquarist.  Water will hold in a suspended manner chemicals and gases.  The levels of these items along with their concentrations over time will provide a remarkable amount of insight into the overall health of the aquarium.

Each day or every other day the aquarist needs to check the following:  pH level, Ammonia level, Nitrate and nitrite level.  Some aquarists will have the test equipment to measure dissolved gases such as O2 and CO2, which are critical to occupant and flora health.

Based on the measured water chemistry elements, the aquarist can determine if a water exchange is necessary, or if more subtle changes are warranted.

Keeping track of the measurement values is best done in an aquarium notebook.

If pH values are below 7.0 and continue to drop, this may be an indication of organic waste buildup.  Accumulation of organic waste, such as uneaten food, decaying plant matter, or excessive fish waste, can lead to the production of acids. These acids can cause a decrease in pH over time, resulting in a reading of 6.0 or lower.

Lower pH may also be caused by rocks or wood that is releasing tannins into the water.  Other causes of lower pH are insufficient carbonate hardness and excessive CO2.

Ammonia measurement is another water chemistry test that will help determine water quality/cleanliness.  There are several causes of high ammonia levels in aquarium water.

New Tank Syndrome: In newly established aquariums, the biological filtration system may not be fully developed, leading to a temporary spike in ammonia levels. This is commonly known as “new tank syndrome” and typically occurs within the first few weeks of setting up a new aquarium.

Overfeeding: Overfeeding fish can result in excessive ammonia production. When fish are fed more food than they can consume, the uneaten food decomposes, releasing ammonia into the water.

Inadequate Filtration: Insufficient or ineffective filtration can contribute to ammonia buildup in the aquarium. Proper filtration helps remove waste and toxins, including ammonia, from the water.

Overstocking: Keeping too many fish in an aquarium can overload the biological filtration system, causing an increase in ammonia production. The waste generated by the fish exceeds the capacity of the beneficial bacteria to break down the ammonia, leading to elevated levels.

Lack of Beneficial Bacteria: Beneficial bacteria play a crucial role in converting ammonia into less harmful substances through the nitrogen cycle. If the aquarium lacks an established colony of these bacteria, ammonia may accumulate.

Poor Water Quality Management: Infrequent or inadequate water changes can contribute to ammonia buildup. Regular partial water changes help dilute toxins and maintain stable water conditions, including ammonia levels.

High ammonia levels may result from any of these items.  Examine the aquarium notebook to see if ammonia levels are changing and then look to these several items to see if any might apply.

Nitrite and nitrate levels vary in conjunction with the nitrogen cycle.  The nitrogen cycle is a biological process where beneficial bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite and then further break down nitrite into less harmful nitrate.

Elevated levels are an indicator of an aquarium that may have excessive biological waste or insufficient beneficial bacteria.  Be certain to enter measurement values in the aquarium notebook and examine earlier values to determine if there is an upward trend.

Nitrate and nitrite measurement values are an indicator measurement that indicates or points to another area of concern like ammonia and biological waste products.

If each of the water analysis indicators are trending, then it is probably a good indicator that water exchange is necessary to bring these indicators back to a more normal state.

After water chemistry/analysis comes the aquarium decor appearance check.  This is a simple observational check to see if there is excessive biological material building up on decor items like rocks, gravel, wood, etc.

The presence of biological waste in excessive amounts should correspond with the trending water analysis values.  As the biological waste increases so does the trending water analyses numbers.

Biological waste is part of having occupants in an aquarium.  Occupants produce waste as do plants.  The biological waste breaks down and produces ammonia which is verified through water analysis.

Removing the excessive biological waste will have an impact of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH values.

Algae is both a nuisance and a beneficial plant for the aquarium.  Algae consumes CO2 and produces O2.  It also consumes nitrates and other suspended minerals in the water.  If it weren’t so pervasive and blocking of the view into the aquarium, it might be nice to have around.

However, people want to see their aquarium occupants.  So, algae needs to be controlled.  To clean algae there are really only three methods.

1. control the biome by reducing light and controlling nutrients

2. purchase algae scrapers and run them over the glass walls

3. invest in algae eating occupants for the aquarium

Or…try all three.  Reduce the number of hours of light by an hour, purchase a scraper, and introduce some algae eating creatures into your aquarium.

Mechanical filtration is the removal of particulate matter from the aquarium water.  This device must operate correctly in order to create enough water flow to have an effect in removing material suspended in the water.

If the filter isn’t moving enough water, it will not be able to remove particulates from the water.  There are only three areas to check that can have a negative impact on filter performance.  The feed/pickup tube, the impeller, and the filter medium.

If the feed/pickup tube is blocked the impeller will not be able to move water through the filter.  Look for obstructions and remove them.

The impeller is often put in motion through a varying magnetic field that turns the impeller assembly causing water to be moved through the filter.  Look for excess algae buildup in and around the impeller that might cause problems in its’ twirling motion.

The physical filter media is the last component to check.  If it is clogged with biological material it will lessen the water flow through the filter assembly.  As needed, change the filter media to maintain an unobstructed water flow.

When the water analysis numbers trend and the biological waste is present, it is time for a water exchange.

In its’ simplest form this is just a removal of 30% of the aquarium water and a replenishment of the removed water.  One could just take a bucket or other container and just bail out 30% of the water, or one could combine two tasks into one event.

Most aquarists combine the removal of aquarium water with the vacuuming of the aquarium floor to remove particulate matter.  By adjusting the rate of water flow through the vacuum attachment the aquarist can stir up and remove most particulate matter while achieving the removal of water.

Do not exceed 30% removal from the aquarium.  If you are not able to vacuum the entire floor, save the balance until the next water exchange event and vacuum the missed area at that time.

Replenish the water removed and then perform a pH check to see if the water has returned to your normal levels.  It may take a few hours to settle down and give a good reading.  Further water analyses of the other water quality tests should improve as well.